Friday, March 03, 2017

Nintendo Switch can't see WIFI, no connection

The Nintendo Switch has a 802.11/ac WIFI chip in it, that runs on 2.4ghz AND 5ghz.
So for people who are getting a problem, where you try to hop onto your wireless network and the switch just doesnt see it. But it can see other people's.

This means that most likely your router is using the wrong security settings.
Log in, and locate: "Security" and search for Authentication Method or something using the words TKIP or AES.
The choices are:
2. AES
3. TKIP+AES (combined together)

You want to select AES  and apply settings (possibly reboot) to your router. Then your switch will be able to detect your WIFI again.

Saturday, November 19, 2016

ChromeCacheViewer "Error 2: The system cannot find the file specified" - REASON / FIX

ChromeCacheView v1.70 - Cache viewer for Google Chrome Web browser 
Copyright (c) 2008 - 2016 Nir Sofer

"Error 2: The system cannot find the file specified"

This error was due to #enable-simple-cache-backend being turned on in chrome://flags/

The "Simple Cache Backend for HTTP" is a new cache. It relies on the filesystem for disk space allocation and it writes your cache in a different format, 1 file per file. It is indeed better, BUT...

The program relies on using the old format that uses an indexable database of basic cache files needed to get the cache information, and they are missing: data_0, data_1, data_2, data_3 ...

Bottom line, the new "simple" structure is currently incompatible with the v1.70 of ChromeCacheViewer. (hopefully this will change)

Toggling the flag will clear your cache, so don't do that if you are struggling to retrieve something from cache. Instead, go to chrome://cache, and follow the instructions in the blog post directly below this one to retrieve the file.

ABOUT the simple-cache-backend (nerdy) :

Senseful Solutions: Viewing Chrome cache (the easy way) UPDATED

SOURCE: The original website is located here:
Senseful Solutions: Viewing Chrome cache (the easy way)

How to view a file from the cache:

  1. COPY the code in the pastebin link at the bottom of this post, including all the ( )
  2. In Chrome, navigate to chrome://cache/
  3. Ctrl+F to find whichever file you want to view, then Click on it.
  4. You should then see a page with a bunch of text and numbers.
  5. In Chrome, Press F12 to open the DevTools Console
  6. Near the bottom, find the > cursor character, click and PASTE the copied code and Press Enter. 
  7. Alt-Tab switch back to the main cache contents window.
  8. You should then see a link which says Download cached file on the top. Click to download it obviously.
  1. If the resulting downloaded file is a compressed gzip archive (Gzip encoding) (should be a .gz file, or maybe push Ctrl+F and search for: gzip to make sure) :
  2. Use 7-zip or a program that reads these files to open the .gz archive And extract the file inside, giving it the appropriate file extension of what exactly the filename was originally. (viewable on the top line)
  3. There you have your file.

UPDATED with code from Ron Howard February 29,2016:

Sunday, November 13, 2016

Enabling Pepper Flash for Spotify in Franz

Franz is an integrated chat program based on Electron (node.js + Chromium). It uses web frameworks to act as an application + a web browser. It comes with various services pre-installed, and you can add your own services with plugins. I wanted to add Spotify, but it required Flash and was not enabled by default.

I am going to assume you are on Windows, because I am, and if not, I hope you know the analogues for what I am talking about, too.

So I created a spotify plugin pack file : (9 kilobytes) (make sure you edit the URL in the package.json file as it currently points to MY spotify page) (main.js unpacked/unobfuscated + already pre-edited for 64-bit Flash on Windows) (integrationClass.js unpacked/unobfuscated + already pre-edited to remove the bug) (30MB) Pepper Flash 64 bit for windows, version

The spotify plugin gets extracted to its own spotify dir inside C:\Users\?????\AppData\Roaming\Franz\Plugins\

Currently with Franz 4.0.4, this is not enough, as you will quickly find out, Flash is not enabled.
Electron supports Flash, but since you have to edit Franz, not everyone can figure it out,

Here is how to edit Franz (complicated, hope you can follow):

1. Go to C:\Users\????\AppData\Local\Franz\app-4.0.4\resources\
2. You will find a few .asar files in there, we are interested in app.asar
2b. Go ahead and delete the pre-existing app.asar.unpacked folder to avoid confusion, as it is a partial duplicate
3a. you will NEED to unpack it with an asar unpacker, which is available through installing node.js:
(sorry I don't have a better way to do this)
3b. Open a command and navigate to the directory above, from this dir, install Asar (link to github) by typing: npm i -g asar
4. Run this command to extract the app.asar file to the "app" dir (has to be named this):
 asar e app.asar app
5. The good thing is that now you can run Franz with the asar resources unpacked forever. (the app directory should take precedence over the app.asar file)
6. The .JS files in here are highly obfuscated and you will have a hard time doing much with them besides investigating the structure for now...

Launching Franz.exe sets off a chain reaction where Electron loads main.js, which loads index.html (and pulls css from css\main.css) We need to edit main.js

7. If you open up main.js in Notepad++ you will see its a mess of gobbledygook.
8. Go ahead and visit and accept all the default options (most notably "detect packers") and paste the entire file into there, hit the "Beautify" button and it will spit out human-readable code (enough).
9. Delete the contents of main.js and Paste the contents back into main.js to replace everything that was there (obviously)
10. We need to replace line 17, the last line of the "window options" (they need to have this added),make sure you have included the comma at the end of title: 'Franz,' to continue the block. :
                title: 'Franz',
                webPreferences: {
                  plugins: true
                //enable "plugins" for flash.
11. Now scroll down to about line 173. You will see, something that says n['on']('ready').
This is the point (Insert directly ABOVE the On ready line) at which you will tell Franz where the plugin is and that it should load it, with the following two lines of code:
        //ENABLE ADOBE FLASH PLUGIN (64-bit Windows)
        n.commandLine.appendSwitch('ppapi-flash-path', './resources/app/pepflashplayer64_23_0_0_207.dll');
        n.commandLine.appendSwitch('ppapi-flash-version', '');
        //thats it.
12. Obviously now you may be wondering, where did I get this .dll file? You likely already have it on your hard drive in multiple places.
First check in C:\Windows\SysWOW64\Macromed\Flash\ (for 32-bit Franz.exe - yes SysWOW64 is backwards and it means 32)
Or C:\Windows\System32\Macromed\Flash\ for 64-bit Franz (on an x64 system). This matters. You can tell by the filename, The filename is approximately (depending on the version, just pick w hatever version you find): pepflashplayer64_23_0_0_207 (30MB for 64bit) and pepflashplayer32_23_0_0_207.dll (17MB for 32-bit)
The other place it could be is: C:\Users\?????\AppData\Local\Google\Chrome\User Data\PepperFlash\\pepflashplayer.dll or if you have Chrome installed to program files, the same approximate location there. If you are on a mac or linux you will need the appropriate plugin.
If you can't find it at all well, its officially obtained by downloading Flash from here:
Make sure you get the "System" plugin, not the browser plugin (and dont click any of those extra MCafee crap things) My dropbox link above for it only exists temporarily, for simplicity.

Copy whichever file you need to C:\Users\????\AppData\Local\Franz\app-4.0.4\resources\app\
as this is the path i've referenced in the code above in step 11. If you need to change the filename, do so in the code above. The filenames just need to match.

13. The next file you need to edit is "lib\integrationClass.js" - it currently has a bug in it, and I have reported it.
Repeat the JS steps you did before now to get this file in an editable form.
13b. The last few lines need to be changed :  Please follow along here: 
OR if it fixed (possibly) by the time you read this, you don't need to

14. Now you should be able to run flash!  Load up the spotify plugin and test it out!

If you want the files, they are hosted above.
If you have any questions, message me on Discord @ genr8_#8163

Helpful for further electron editing:
Next up in the Franz editing series will be the UI of Index.html and main.css

Thursday, February 25, 2016

Digital Audio Cables - Do they matter? Maybe. Sometimes. For USB Yes, for Ethernet? no.

On USB Cables / DACs:

Yes digital cables will transmit a bit-perfect digital signal that can be reconstructed DESPITE any noise/flaws/jitter, but the story does not end here. I will give you a simple example which you neglected to mention, and is a valid data point (if it matters for one thing, it should not be dismissed outright). When a USB DAC device is self-powered off of USB, and the 5V Line is connected to the computer’s motherboard, noise is transmitted over that 5V line in the USB cable, and a ground loop may also be formed if the USB cable is quite long. In recent years, motherboard makers have introduced specific “USB-DAC USB ports” that have extra noise filtering circuitry in them to remove garbage created by the cheap switch mode power supplies in computers. The D+ and D- pins of the USB cable are differential pairs and prevents EMI and the bit-stream can be reconstructed and interpreted properly by the DAC. The issue is that you have forgotten about how the device the DAC is in was designed, and some devices may be susceptible to noisy 5V lines inducing noise on the analog signal path of the DAC.

On Ethernet Cables: (a copy of my response to someone):
This was going well until he got to the part about "electrically isolate your network cables and go with fiber optics". Clearly he thinks this would help because in the audio world, Optical cables usually serve well to break ground loops, but it is misguided advice HERE specifically when relating to networking. A normal network cable (unshielded) isn't actually grounded to the chassis ground. Assuming your network's ethernet cable runs are functioning enough that there is 0% packet loss, and as long as the analog electrical impulses get to the destination device's (ie: stream box renderer's) network PHY transceiver chip (Layer 1 of the OSI model), proper digital packet decoding will take place in the MAC chip (Layer 2 of the OSI Model). Any noise or garbage on the ethernet cable will never propagate further than the PHY. Your audio is not going to sound better because you're breaking a cable run up with some optical fiber. Any "noise" in the cable would only serve to hinder digital packet decoding (and inconsequentially at that, due to automatic re-transmission by TCP/IP, and the balanced twisted pair nature of the cabling). And if your network is not functioning properly and you did have digital audio packets being lost because of noise/interference, putting a gap of fiber optics AFTER the issue is not going to remedy that. Please note its hard to explain this in 5 minutes but I did my best. To be more technical: any common-mode noise (ground loop) induced onto the balanced twisted pairs in a UTP cable are subtracted out by the transceiver (PHY) as part of the differential transmission algorithm. Not only that, but since they are almost always 50/60hz due to AC hum, they do not affect data transmission due to the balanced twisted pair design of the cable (rated for ~350 MEGAhertz).

-part 2:

Millions of engineers out there can prove you wrong, but they have better things to do. The concept of proven reliable "bit-perfect" streaming is different on each. As long as you are getting packets from one end to the other without loss (which is easily provable by CRC routines and other in-built checks in the Ethernet spec) then no high quality Ethernet cable is going to give you better audio. The same can be applied to USB/HDMI but they are harder to prove and there are more ghosts in the machine so to speak. Also, of the things we do understand, like jitter in USB cables, each technology is fundamentally different, and what applies to USB does not apply to Ethernet and so on for HDMI and SPDIF coaxial. So if you're going to buy a high quality audio cable, save your money on audiophile grade Ethernet which is 100% nonsense and buy other high quality USB, HDMI or power cables......

Wednesday, December 09, 2015

How To Boot an NVME SSD from a Legacy BIOS (non UEFI) w/ Intel 750 Series SSD

This tutorial is about LEGACY BIOSes.

This is something i've been wanting to try for a very long time, since I have an older X58 motherboard, which is still my main system, and I'm using a Core i7 950 OC'ed to 3.8GHz.

EVERYONE said it couldn't be done. That is no longer true, because I have proven it myself!
It involves a program/bootloader called Tianocore, which has mostly been used for as part of "Clover" to boot Hackintoshes in EFI mode. But it will serve us so we can boot Windows in EFI mode, so the NVME drive is able to be detected at the boot stage, prior to Windows loading.

Background Info (scroll down to see solution, if you are lazy)

Only a UEFI compatible with NVME (something like UEFI version 2.3.1 and later) along with a "efi driver"/module will allow the computer to POST->BOOT->OS from an NVME drive.
There are other websites explaining how to mod your UEFI if you need to add this support into an older UEFI.

  • The Legacy BIOS sees the card as a generic undefined "SCSI Card" in the boot devices list, but this will not work.
  • The Windows 10 OS (what I used) - going back to Windows 8.1 (not 8) - come included with a "Standard NVME Controller driver" which lets Windows use the drive as a data drive ( D:\ for example).
  • The Windows 10 Installer sees the drive immediately but refuses to let you install to it because of a double-checking routine which queries the BIOS to make sure your system WOULD be bootable, so it doesn't waste your time installing to something impossible to boot from. (This is quite annoying in this case, but we can work around it by any number of ways, Cloning is one... Unrelatedly, also of note, this BIOS double-check also applies to Hot-plugging a SATA drive (for me anyway, as my BIOS has no options for supporting Hot Plug detection, even though the SATA Controllers do.)
  • The Intel 750 Series PCI-e NVME SSD has an Option ROM flash chip on the card. Dumping the ROM from linux gets us:

    Image 1:

      PCI Expansion ROM Header:

        Signature: 0x55aa (Ok)

        CPU unique data: 0x2b 0x00 0xf1 0x0e 0x00 0x00 0x0b 0x00

                         0x64 0x86 0x01 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00

        Pointer to PCI Data Structure: 0x001c


      PCI Data Structure:

        Signature: 0x50434952 'PCIR' (Ok)

        Vendor ID: 0x8086

        Device ID: 0x0953
        Vital Product Data:  0x0000
        PCI Data Structure Length: 0x001c (28 bytes)
        PCI Data Structure Revision: 0x03
        Class Code: 0x000000 (Legacy Device)
        Image Length: 0x002b blocks (22016 bytes)
        Revision Level of Code/Data: 0x0000
        Code Type: 0x03 (Intel EFI (unofficial))
        Last-Image Flag: 0x80 (last image in rom)
        Reserved: 0x0000
      Parsing of platform specific data not available for this image

Some things to note: Class Code: Legacy Device, well, yes it is a Legacy device, you can use it just fine as long as you aren't booting to it. Code Type: Intel EFI. and then the last line is the most telling (especially when you compare it to a ROMdump of something like a network card) - reveals that this boot ROM is only applicable to EFI platforms (not BIOS). Therefore we cannot just mod/add the vendor device ID 8086_0953 to the BIOS tables to get it to boot.
Theoretically, if we could find a legacy BIOS based option ROM for this card, we could re-flash the card with that as a solution however no such thing exists and likely never will.

Some History on Windows, and the Boot Process

I thought by using a 2nd visible SATA HDD to initiate the MBR boot instruction, then calling BOOTMGR to obtain the List of Windows Installations (where you push F8 for safe mode etc) would be enough, but this also falls dead in its tracks.... The process goes like this: POST->BIOS->MBR->BOOTMGR->winload.exe->failure. Winload.exe is what loads NTOSKRNL.exe and the HAL.dll and all of the drivers classified as "Boot" (like hard drive controllers). The problem is that it FAILS to reach the point of loading any drivers. I thought I could trick the BCD Editor with tricky manual editing (bcdedit.exe) but no amount of editing will allow winload.exe to see an NVME drive as a valid path (even though Windows has the driver, its just too early in the process, and this native code is relying heavily on the BIOS).

This is an entry for a default regular MBR/BIOS install of Windows:

Windows Boot Loader
identifier              {current}
device                  partition=C:
wath                    \Windows\system32\winload.exe
description             Windows 10
locale                  en-us
inherit                 {bootloadersettings}
allowedinmemorysettings 0x15000075
osdevice                partition=C:
systemroot              \Windows
resumeobject            {fdd8d97c-9d4e-11e5-9c8b-bcaec519e8ac}
nx                      OptIn
bootmenupolicy          Standard 

You can see "device" = C: and path = winload.exe. Then you also see "osdevice" = C: and systemroot = \Windows. Changing one or both to D: or anything else (many hours of trial and error).... does not work.
BCD configuration only accepts drive letters, or paths in the form \Device\HarddiskVolume2, which is IMMEDIATELY converted into a drive letter (if mounted). But actually in the background, whats happening is that the Volume Serial Number/partition signature (an 8 or 16 digit hex number on the partition's logical sector 0) is being located and stored. This is why many times if you clone a drive, because some cloning programs decide its best to change the signature, and then do not correctly update the boot config to match. It's not just "Boot from Drive C:" or "boot from partition 1".

No amount of trickery with bootloaders, chainloaders, GRUB, or modifying windows's settings/ registry will help with this.

SOLUTION: 10 Steps to Take to Really Make it work

0. Start off with your NVME drive initialized as MBR, not GPT. (I have not tested GPT.) 
1. Create a small FAT32 partition like ~100MB on the NVME drive as partition 1. (not under 32MB or FAT32 won't work - i think windows has some larger-than32mb but less-than100mb abnormal minimum limit before it refuses to format, just stick to 100MB).  Name it something like "EFI BOOT" for good measure. Assign it a drive letter to be able to access it. Make it Active.
          C:\> diskpart.exe
     DISKPART> list disk
     DISKPART> select disk 4
     DISKPART> clean      (start fresh: removes any partitions/the MBR. skip if needed)
     DISKPART> convert mbr (starting fresh: initializes disk as MBR. skip if needed)
     DISKPART> create partition primary SIZE=100
     DISKPART> list partition
     DISKPART> select partition 1
     DISKPART> format fs=fat32 label=efi_boot
     DISKPART> assign letter=K
     DISKPART> active
     DISKPART> exit
2. Clone a partition already containing Windows to the available space, as partition 2. Since the installer is fail-tastic. Theoretically you can install a fresh version, but I did not do this, and you would need a UEFI copy of the windows installation media to launch the installer in UEFI mode.
Now you need to make sure the registry on the new cloned disk has C: pointing to the NVME disk's Disk Signature. Some cloning programs do this automatically.  HKLM\SYSTEM\MountedDevices\ holds this key. The best way to do this is to clone an OS that has seen the NVME drive that you just initialized. (since initializing resets the disk signature).  If you have an old image you want to re-use, export the Reg-key of the NVME drive's letter from the running OS, and save it so you can add it in the next step.
2a. Editing the registry ON the cloned drive: This requires manually loading the cloned drive's SYSTEM hive in a running OS.  Then load regedit.exe, click the HKLM key, click File|Load Hive..., type any name. Now navigate to  HKLM\SYSTEM\MountedDevices\ , Then you can delete the existing entry for C:, find the letter that the NVME drive's windows partition existed as, and  rename that key/letter so its the new C:. (or import the reg-key you exported) Then unload the reg-hive (it auto-saves). 
3. Create the boot files on the FAT32 partition to boot the newly cloned NTFS windows partition. Get an admin command prompt ready and type:
bcdboot L:\Windows /s K: /h UEFI
where L:\Windows is the NVME drive's windows directory and K: is the FAT32 partition on the NVME drive. (dont worry that L: is not called C:, this part does not obey the \MountedDevices list you just edited)
4. Your'e going to want some kind of MBR master boot sector on this drive I think (I forget how I did this. Maybe bcdboot puts one.).
5. Download Tianocore (the entire zip file) from here
This is an open source EFI "emulator" . Extract it somewhere making sure the pathname has no spaces in it.
6. They intend for you to create a USB Flash drive to boot with, which you should do first, to test it. (you can worry about creating something more permanent like a 2nd internal disk later - see bottom of this page). Run:
          CreateUSB.cmd M:
where M: is the letter of your USB flash drive. Do NOT put this on the NVME drive, that would be dumb. You want to trigger the NVME boot partition from something thats ACTUALLY bootable, in this case a USB drive.
6a. Plug and replug it. If it shows up as Non-Formatted, Thats not right. I had issues with this. Doing Diskpart.exe: clean , followed by, convert mbr , will start fresh. to clear out any latent crap in the MBR or just try a new flash drive.
6b. USB Creation Step 2, run:
          CreateUSB.cmd M: UDK_X64
6c. Make the partition active. (diskpart or diskmgmt.msc)
7. Test the USB Flash drive. Boot off it. Make sure you see "Tianocore" logo, and a little menu hopefully. You can poke around in here, but really no configuration is needed.
8. The NVME drive should be triggered and show a Windows Logo or blue windows screen now. Windows will not load fully however. (INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE) You have to press F8 and boot into Safe Mode First. I'm not exactly sure why that is necessary, but it is. (I've repeated the process twice to be sure.) I feel like safe mode resets something in the registry that I dont know about.
9. Reboot, off the USB flash drive, and now Tianocore should boot, and then Windows should boot into normal mode. Perfect!
10. DONE!

Now you probably want to know how to make it so you don't have a USB stick hanging out of your system for the rest of its natural life. you are going to need a SECOND FAT32 partition on a SATA disk, and it is going to have to be Partition 1. I have not figured out a way to allow this partition to be at the end of the disk to save effort of resizing the partition. The best partition management tool i've found is "MiniTool Partition Wizard Home Edition 9" available for free, full featured. They will resize very fast, safely, and in windows without rebooting, even resizing to make space in the FRONT. Once you have that small (again like 100MB FAT32) partition on a bootable SATA disk, the hard part comes. The damn CreateUSB.cmd script relies on some programs called BootSectImage.exe and GenBootSect.exe and they modify the MBR and the PBR of a USB flash drive. Examining the source code of these files reveals that they should be compatible with IDE disks, but yet my testing reveals they do not work on SATA HARD DRIVES at least in Windows. You should try first running them from a NATIVE DOS prompt to see if they are treated as Legacy IDE in DOS and it allows to work. If not, well, you have to cheat. Run the following procedures,editing the first line to point to the path that you extracted the Tianocore Zip file to. Pseudo commands and actual commands are mixed because I have not automated this as of yet to set this up.

set UEFI_DUET=E:\750_Project\tiano\

set WIN_BIN_DIR=%UEFI_DUET%\Windows_Binaries


<STEP 1: Patch the PBR>
#back up the desired SATA HDD FAT32 
partition's existing boot sector (sector 2048) manually to a file called Fat32-2048.bin with secinspect.exe or other tool. #
# #


SECINSPECT.EXE -backup Q: MY_SECTORS\Fat32-2048.bin 2048 1
%WIN_BIN_DIR%\BOOTSECTIMAGE.EXE --verbose -g MY_SECTORS\Fat32-2048.bin MY_SECTORS\newBS32.bin -f
# now write this newbs32.bin back to 2048 and 2054(backup) #

<STEP 2: Patch the MBR>
The MBR at sector 0 contains two sections, from hex addresses 0-1B8, the boot code. From that point on, exists the partition table which you do not want to mess with. You can either Hex-Edit the MBR and copy and paste the code from the file, (which is what I did as a learning process) or do a similar procedure:

SECINSPECT.EXE -backup Q: MY_SECTORS\MBR-sec0.bin 0 1

You now have done step 1 and 2 . Proceed to Step 3 (only copies files):
          CreateUSB.cmd Q: UDK_X64

This should be all thats required to get the equivalent of the USB disk onto your HDD. Now everything is done. Enjoy. Simple huh :) Hope you could understand this all, I put a lot of time into it. email me @ mrlithium NOT@AT if you need help.

Friday, September 04, 2015

How to Split a Matroska MKV file without re encode or any dumb software

The command line is:
"C:\Program Files\MKVToolNix\mkvmerge.exe" -o NewFile.mkv -v --split 3G --link "TheVeryLargeFileYouWantToSplit.mkv"

For a 4 gig file on an SSD, it took a total of 44 seconds.

You can split by size, time, chapters, precise frames, etc.... (note that in my example it would be 3G for 3 Gigabytes) or you can use (01:00:00 for 1 hour chunks)

The crucial option here is the --link option which is dryly explained below, but it basically means that the file looks, acts, feels like you never actually split it, but now it exists on the hard drive in multiple files, that are referencing each other. Your player software will continue on with no gaps, jumps, and the chapters and elapsed time intact. (hopefully you are using MPC-HC & LAV codecs on your computer).
(the -v is for verbose = prints status of what its doing )

Using the program MediaInfo, you can open the MKV file you want to split, and read the version of MKVMerge that was used to create it, and its recommended to use at least that version to edit/split/link it, in case its using some new features (probably not - and if not, you can use older mkvmerge versions to split newer files). Also - 
Its possible that you can download too new of a version of MKVToolNix that is incompatible with your player, as sometimes the latest version will write an incompatible header for older players/boxes.  I'm using because i've tested all my devices on it, and using version 8.3.0 which is the latest version as of this blog post, might break small things in edge case scenarios and I won't know until its too late when I go to try to play it back (So i've heard). So test on standalone bluray players/Stream boxes, and if you experience problems on playback, try to download the next major old version, unless you need some new feature, at the cost of retro compatibility. The changelogs are here (and really quite hard to read, but CTRL+F search for "Released v" which you can also use to search builds by date). 


Multiple ways to split:

 as per the --help switch of mkvmerge.exe:

 File splitting, linking, appending and concatenating (more global options):
  --split <d[K,M,G]|HH:MM:SS|s>
                           Create a new file after d bytes (KB, MB, GB)
                           or after a specific time.
  --split timecodes:A[,B...]
                           Create a new file after each timecode A, B
  --split parts:start1-end1[,[+]start2-end2,...]
                           Keep ranges of timecodes start-end, either in
                           separate files or append to previous range's file
                           if prefixed with '+'.
  --split parts-frames:start1-end1[,[+]start2-end2,...]
                           Same as 'parts:', but 'startN'/'endN' are frame/
                           field numbers instead of timecodes.
  --split frames:A[,B...]
                           Create a new file after each frame/field A, B
  --split chapters:all|A[,B...]
                           Create a new file before each chapter (with 'all')
                           or before chapter numbers A, B etc.
  --split-max-files <n>    Create at most n files.


Copied from the documentation file in "C:\Program Files\MKVToolNix\doc\en\mkvmerge.html", Section 11:

11. File linking

Matroska(tm) supports file linking which simply says that a specific file is the predecessor or successor of the current file. To be precise, it's not really the files that are linked but the Matroska(tm) segments. As most files will probably only contain one Matroska(tm) segment the following explanations use the term 'file linking' although 'segment linking' would be more appropriate.
Each segment is identified by a unique 128 bit wide segment UID. This UID is automatically generated by mkvmerge(1). The linking is done primarily via putting the segment UIDs (short: SID) of the previous/next file into the segment header information. mkvinfo(1) prints these SIDs if it finds them.
If a file is split into several smaller ones and linking is used then the timecodes will not start at 0 again but will continue where the last file has left off. This way the absolute time is kept even if the previous files are not available (e.g. when streaming). If no linking is used then the timecodes should start at 0 for each file. By default mkvmerge(1) does not use file linking. If you want that you can turn it on with the --link option. This option is only useful if splitting is activated as well.
Regardless of whether splitting is active or not the user can tell mkvmerge(1) to link the produced files to specific SIDs. This is achieved with the options --link-to-previous and --link-to-next. These options accept a segment SIDin the format that mkvinfo(1) outputs: 16 hexadecimal numbers between 0x00 and 0xff prefixed with '0x' each, e.g. '0x41 0xda 0x73 0x66 0xd9 0xcf 0xb2 0x1e 0xae 0x78 0xeb 0xb4 0x5e 0xca 0xb3 0x93'. Alternatively a shorter form can be used: 16 hexadecimal numbers between 0x00 and 0xff without the '0x' prefixes and without the spaces, e.g. '41da7366d9cfb21eae78ebb45ecab393'.
If splitting is used then the first file is linked to the SID given with --link-to-previous and the last file is linked to the SID given with --link-to-next. If splitting is not used then the one output file will be linked to both of the twoSIDs.


Side Note as a reason for creating this blog post: 

-You can not just use any old file cutter utility to chop the file in half and then repair it.
-If you search for how to do this online, you get about 100 horrible freeware,shareware, malware laden and general JUNK video editor programs. So annoying....

Monday, August 17, 2015

Bring your own device + Virtualization / KVM idea, to combine two computers into one seamless software experience.

I just thought of an incredible Idea that would make me a millionaire if i was able to prove the concept
imagine putting your entire computer on a USB flash drive, like live-USB basically
and then you bring it to someones house and you plug it in
this is the current method which is clunky and its either Theirs or Yours, and requiring reboots
Now imagine if its not ONLY storage - but has blue-tooth,WiFi, and a CPU, like a compute stick
barely enough hardware to make it work.
and there's a "synergy" interface between the two devices
and you can basically run programs from your computer ON theirs
no reboots. It would run inside a host app.
the hurdle is to like remove all the software barriers of doing such a thing so anyone can do it
and then find the proper device to really help this idea thrive.
i mean, I can attempt such a thing today with a great deal of prep-work and manual configuration
All that's required is to create the automatic interoperability software

a better way to explain it would be:
 "a blue-tooth enabled computer that pairs to someone else's computer" with software to remove barriers between the two, so you could use BOTH computers at once
not all that far fetched IMO!
it would rely heavily on virtualization and sandboxing just to keep things secure
essentially, a virtualization, KVM, sandbox, VM host App 
the appearance of x86 phones really make this sound possible to me
the phone only needs a WiFi chip, a cpu, minimal amount of ram to run a hypervisor, ~256gb-1TB+ storage to fit everything you want to bring with you
and then blue-tooth to initiate the pairing. which then hands-off to WiFi
you open the VM/sandbox app on the host PC, initiate the blue-tooth pairing process, and then your hard drives are made available, the host reads your icons, programs, registry, documents, and sorts EVERYTHING out (not as hard as it sounds)

phase 2 of the idea would be getting the mobile device powerful enough to where you could comfortably do the reverse - probably 5 years away
Nobody has thought of this probably, because laptops are self sufficient, do not need pairing, and phones are typically ARM and largely incompatible and off in their own ecosystem and seen as an impossible task which even microsoft nor apple cannot unify or accomplish.
however, i do believe we're closer to this on Windows 10 + x86 than Apple is with OSX + IOS, and that independent developers can even be the one to prove this before the big guys take over.

who knows, in a few years, our addiction to carrying around phones, and making phone calls, and calling the thing a "phone" will be gone, and we just call it a computer.....
and theyd be able to basically have this like "cellular chip" that plugs into a flap on the back to enable phone calls. that may be taking the concept too far too soon but there you have it!
you could even implement a docking station to connect @ Thunderbolt 3's 40Gbps or USB 3.1 10gbps + Displayport, and improve pairing and connectivity speeds.